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Guide · sizing · 9 min read

Sizing a chiller for 33-degree air, with the arithmetic shown

Two mistakes account for nearly every disappointing cold plunge in Indonesia: ignoring condensation, and believing the kilowatt figure on the box. Both are arithmetic, both are fixable before you buy, and both are worked through here on a real 400-litre tub.

Matte black chiller cabinet beside a dark terrazzo tub with insulated hoses looping between them

Start with the water surface, not the volume

Almost every load on a cold plunge enters through the top. A 400-litre tub of sensible proportions has about 0.88 square metres of water surface, and that single number drives most of what follows. Volume matters for the pull-down — how long the first fill takes — but it barely affects what the chiller has to shed once the tub is cold. This is why a wide shallow tub is harder to hold at 3 degrees than a narrow deep one of identical litres.

Four things arrive through that surface and two arrive elsewhere. Convection and radiation from warm air: about 14 watts per square metre for every degree between air and water. Condensation: about 190 watts per square metre of open water, every hour, all year. Conduction through the walls and base: 0.62 watts per square metre per degree through 40 millimetres of polyurethane. Then the circulation pump, which puts 85 watts of its own heat straight back into the water, and the refill water plus the bathers, about 0.012 watts per litre per degree of gap.

Condensation is the load nobody quotes

In a European sizing chart condensation is a rounding error, because cold water in cold dry air barely condenses anything. In Indonesia the dew point sits around 25 degrees all year. A water surface at 5 degrees is 20 degrees below the dew point, so moisture forms on it continuously, and every gram that condenses releases its latent heat into the water. On an open 400-litre tub that is roughly 167 watts — close to a quarter of the entire load, and it appears nowhere on an imported specification sheet.

An insulated lid removes most of it. Our model applies a factor of 0.58 to the whole surface term whenever the lid is on outside bathing hours, and that single component is the difference between 710 watts and 516 watts on the same tub in the same Jakarta garden. In money: Rp 283,000 a month against Rp 214,000. It is also why we include the lid in the price of every tub rather than selling it as an accessory, and why the first thing we ask a client whose tub will not hold temperature is whether anybody is putting it back on.

The worked example: 400 litres in Jakarta

ComponentClosed tubOpen tubWhere it comes from
Convection and radiation from air171 W295 W14 W/m²K over a 24-degree gap
Condensation on the surface97 W167 W190 W/m² of open water
Through walls and base47 W47 W0.62 W/m²K through 40 mm PU
Circulation pump85 W85 Wpump heat dumped back into the water
Refill water and bathers115 W115 W0.012 W per litre per degree
Holding load516 W710 Wthe number the chiller must shed, always

Those are the real Jakarta figures for a 400-litre tub held at 5 degrees with mains water at 29 and air peaking at 34. In Bandung, where the tap runs 22-24 degrees, the same tub adds up to 432 watts, and the condensation line falls to 97 watts because the air holds less moisture to give up. In Surabaya it climbs to 529 watts. Same tub, same lid, three different machines.

Now the part that surprises people: the chiller shrinks

A chiller is rated against 15-degree water in mild air. Push the evaporating temperature down to 5 degrees and put the condenser in 34-degree air and the same machine delivers roughly half its nameplate. Our model computes the derating explicitly rather than hiding it: start at 0.50, add 0.009 for every degree the ambient air is below 30, add 0.014 for every degree the target is above 5, and clamp the result between 0.42 and 0.78.

Nominal rating, 1.5 PK4.2 kW at 15 °C water
Jakarta, 34 °C air, 5 °C targetfactor 0.464 → 1.95 kW real
Canggu, 32 °C air, 5 °C targetfactor 0.482 → 2.02 kW real
Bandung, 29 °C air, 5 °C targetfactor 0.509 → 2.14 kW real
Same unit at a 12 °C targetfactor rises by 0.098 → about 2.36 kW
What this meanshalf the brochure figure is the honest starting point

The rule: twice the load, and a pull-down inside eight hours

A chiller that exactly matches the holding load would run at 100 per cent duty forever and never recover from a session, a hot afternoon or a refill. So the first half of our rule is that effective cooling at the target temperature must be at least twice the holding load. The second half is practical: the unit must be able to take a full tub from local mains temperature down to target within eight hours, so an overnight fill is ready by morning.

  1. Work out the holding load from the table above for your volume, your city's water temperature and your target.
  2. Work out the pull-down energy. Litres times 4.18 times the temperature gap, divided by 3,600, gives kilowatt-hours. For 400 litres from 29 to 5 degrees that is 11.15 kWh.
  3. Take the larger of two requirements. Twice the load — here 1.03 kW — or the pull-down spread over eight hours plus the holding load, which is 1.39 plus 0.52, so 1.91 kW. The second wins.
  4. Divide by the derating factor to get the nominal size you must buy: 1.91 divided by 0.464 is 4.12 kW.
  5. Round up to a real unit. The next size up is 4.2 kW, which is 1.5 PK. That is why Jakarta gets 1.5 PK and not 1 PK, and why Surabaya's slightly higher numbers push it to 2 PK.

What each size can actually hold here

SizeNominalReal drawLargest tub held at 5 °C in hot lowland Indonesia
0.75 PK2.1 kW700 W180 litres
1 PK2.8 kW950 W260 litres
1.5 PK4.2 kW1,400 W410 litres
2 PK5.6 kW1,850 W570 litres
3 PK8.4 kW2,700 W1,100 litres

That last column is the honest one, and it is the column most sellers replace with the nominal litre figure. It already includes the low-temperature capacity loss, 33-degree air, 29-degree mains water and a fitted lid. In Bandung every figure rises by about a fifth; in a highland town like Berastagi by about 45 per cent. Full specifications and prices for each unit are under ice bath chillers, and the inverter versions under inverter chillers.

Four ways people get it wrong

  • Sizing from volume alone. Two tubs of 400 litres with different surface areas need different machines. Surface first, volume second.
  • Trusting the nameplate. A 4.2 kW unit is a 1.95 kW unit in a Jakarta garden. If a quotation does not mention derating, it has not been calculated.
  • Forgetting the lid, then blaming the chiller. 516 watts becomes 710 the moment the lid stays off, which is a 38 per cent increase against a machine sized with no margin.
  • Boxing the condenser in. An outdoor unit in a cupboard breathes its own exhaust. We want 60 centimetres of clear air on the intake faces and shade over the top; a choked condenser is one of the three things our warranty excludes.
  • Planning for 5 degrees and using 3. At 3 degrees a 400-litre Canggu tub goes from 516 to 543 watts and the requirement crosses into 2 PK. Decide the floor temperature before you buy the machine, not after.

Sizing questions

Can I just buy a bigger chiller to be safe?

Up to a point, yes, and oversizing is far less harmful than undersizing. Beyond about 2.5 times the load an on-off compressor short-cycles — it reaches temperature, stops, restarts a few minutes later — and starts are what wear a compressor out. An inverter unit avoids that because it can throttle down, which is the main argument for the inverter line at larger sizes.

Does a deeper tub need less cooling than a shallow one?

For the same volume, yes. Nearly all the load enters through the water surface, so a narrow deep tub of 400 litres is cheaper to hold cold than a wide shallow one. The difference is easily one chiller size on larger formats.

How much does an insulated lid actually save?

On a 400-litre Jakarta tub, 194 watts of load and Rp 69,000 a month — about a third of the bill. It also keeps out leaves, dust and rain, which is why we treat it as part of the tub rather than an accessory.

What if my chiller is already installed and undersized?

First, check the obvious: lid use, condenser airflow, a blocked cartridge, and the actual voltage at the socket. Those four account for most complaints. If the machine really is too small, a smaller tub volume or a higher target temperature will bring it back into range — both are cheaper than a new compressor. We will calculate it for you even if we did not sell the unit.

Where can I run these numbers for my own tub?

On the chiller calculator, which uses this exact model with the derating table and the eight-hour rule. City water temperatures are on the locations page.

Langkah berikutnya

Send your volume and city and we will size it for you

Or size it yourself first. The calculator uses this exact model, including the derating table.

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